| The finished item of clothing is one step ahead of just | | | | The perfect mode to decide whether your fabric is |
| the cut and sewn fabric. The following pointers will | | | | made of a natural fibre is a burn test. If you are at a |
| make the procedure simpler to perform. The process | | | | store and not sure of a fabric matter, you should ask |
| is divided in to three phases namely pre-production, | | | | for a cut, and take burn test in the parking lot. |
| production and post-production. | | | | D. Ironing |
| Pre-Production | | | | Since it is not easy to draw on wrinkled paper, it is |
| A. Planning | | | | tremendously difficult to cut out a garment on a |
| If you ever go to buy household things without a | | | | wrinkled piece of cloth. It is advisable to iron out the |
| shopping list, you are bound to forget certain items or | | | | fabric before cutting. |
| you are sure to buy more than the targeted products; | | | | E. Laying out the fabric |
| same thing happens when you kick off sewing | | | | If you are cutting doubles and on the fold, it is really |
| garment. It has been discovered that a tailor, who mulls | | | | significant to line up the fabric before cutting it. If the |
| over and designs a garment, complete with colour | | | | fabric is not lined up before cutting doubles and on the |
| sketches and smart thinking as well as a list of ideas | | | | fold, the grain lines for some of the parts could finish up |
| that he will want, he would require less money and | | | | being much dissimilar and this will create a poor effect |
| time for manufacturing the garment than if he simply | | | | on the finished item. |
| banks on fate. | | | | F. Pattern Cutting |
| A manufacturer should sit with sketchbooks and | | | | The grain lines cannot be taken for granted! You |
| scribble pads with thoughts on garments, nice designs | | | | should cut out all parts of the garment (if shell, lining and |
| and bits and pieces of fabric. Mainly the pages are | | | | interlining are used) at the same time. Avoid using pins, |
| placed with a sketch of a garment, lists of things like | | | | use pattern weights instead. This will prevent your |
| hooks and eyes or approximate lengths of trim as well | | | | patterns from getting punctured and it makes the |
| as buttons, embroidery thread or other accessories. If | | | | process more efficient. The costlier weights sold in |
| you have got some fabric at home that you would like | | | | fabric stores can be replaced by Tuna fish cans, |
| to manufacture a garment out of, you should add a | | | | which provide inexpensive, superior options. Since the |
| piece of that in the sketchbook with the line drawing; | | | | Tuna fish packed in oil is not suitable, you are |
| thus, you can choose lining fabric to compare or | | | | requested to choose the weight of Tuna fish packed |
| distinguish. | | | | in spring water. |
| The surprising matter is that you don't need any artistic | | | | Production |
| skill to apply this technique. Just sketch out a rough, | | | | A. Construction |
| add colour in and make your lists; now your action plan | | | | Separate the garment into various small parts and build |
| is prepared to be followed. You can get somebody, | | | | those parts first. For example, labour the bodice first, |
| who has good knowledge of drawing, to delineate a | | | | building it and bringing it to the spot where the other |
| primary shape of the types of garments you want to | | | | parts will be stored or connected. Next, go to the |
| manufacture. Get them photocopied and apply them to | | | | sleeves. Your approach should be to begin with the |
| draw on and colour. In any case, you'll be prepared | | | | most challenging part, so that it might not come in your |
| when you hit the fabric stall and they're running a sale. | | | | way later on. You can also set off with the middle |
| With a sketchbook nearby, you can compare the | | | | part, sense the part that everything else relies on. For |
| colour of that $1.99 linen to the sample of cloth of | | | | the most part, this is the body section. |
| brocade in your book and either purchase it or leave it. | | | | B. Grading Seams and Points |
| One more mode of making this method work for you | | | | This decreases volume and enables points to make a |
| is to photocopy pictures of the several types of | | | | brittle line. Decreasing volume was popular in many of |
| garments and pieces of garments you need to make | | | | the garments of the 16th and 17th century. |
| and staple those in your sketchbook together with | | | | C. Clipping Seams |
| fabric swatches. | | | | Concave and convex are enabled by clipping seams |
| B. Choice of Material | | | | to do their thing without wrinkling. Many of the seams in |
| Garments manufactured in 16th and 17th century had a | | | | garments from the period are convex or concave. Clip |
| specific weight to them that is created by the types of | | | | them, therefore they cannot pull or wrinkle and this |
| fabrics both on hand and used. When sources state | | | | clipping also makes the finishing fit improved and |
| that a particular garment was manufactured of silk | | | | enables those seams to move and mould themselves |
| lined with taffeta, they are speaking of a quite heavy | | | | around the body as they were intended to do. |
| bodied silk with a crisp silk taffeta lining. We can bear | | | | D. Pressing Seams |
| only such kind of silks that are much softer and thinner | | | | Unless and until (and even though) you're sewing by |
| than would have been used. | | | | hand, you are always advised to unlock all seams and |
| This problem can be overcome in two manners. First, | | | | iron them flat. Pressing is the major distinction between |
| shift to a heavier but less costly material that | | | | a dressmaking garment and a regular, readymade |
| reproduces the appearance you're struggling to | | | | garment. Seams without press appear bulky and do |
| accomplish. Second, if heavier material is not available, | | | | not behave. Pressed seams have a beautiful, finished |
| or you like to work with thinner material, you can | | | | look to them that considers the rest of the garment. |
| interline the garment. | | | | E. Adding Trim |
| Interlining: Cut the interlining coating as with the outer | | | | At this phase, to insert trim either by hand or by |
| coating. Place them together and handle them as one | | | | machine assures that you can tuck the tails into closed |
| single coating of fabric during the creation stage. Baste | | | | seams afterwards and makes it possible to lay the |
| or pin together as required. | | | | trim down on the shell only. Adding trim later signifies |
| C. Pre-washing | | | | that you'll have to insert trim after all the parts are |
| Everything should be given a pre-wash without any | | | | sewn together and you'll have to work out what to do |
| exception. Even though it says 'dry clean only'. Give a | | | | with the incomplete ends. |
| burn test first to ensure there are no wonders; give | | | | F. Put It All Together |
| pre-wash and then wash everything that is created of | | | | Sew the shell and lining together after the shell parts |
| natural fibres together with silk and linen. The dryer is | | | | and lining parts have been sewn together. This is how |
| the main damager that wears and tears fabric. | | | | garment is constructed at present. You would put the |
| Therefore, dry the fabric after pre-washing but the | | | | lining and shell parts together and deal with them as |
| garment may finish up being drip-dried till it is thrown in | | | | one in the construction procedure if you were sewing |
| trash relying on the fabric used. Before pre-washing, | | | | by hand. |
| take a small swatch of the fabric and match it with the | | | | G. Fitting |
| fabric after it has been pre-washed and dried. As a | | | | Make your final fitting before reaching the |
| general principle, garments manufactured from | | | | post-production state. Find out if armholes and neck |
| upholstery brocades or jacquards must be drip-dried. If | | | | gaps are too small. This final finish fitting will also |
| the garment is manufactured from high-class cotton, | | | | establish the accuracy of the finished fit. On the whole |
| linen or silk, it gets washed and dried per normal until | | | | this is your last opportunity to modify things effortlessly. |
| and unless the pre-wash swatch pointed out a severe | | | | After things are completed, it's much more difficult to |
| loss of colour, reduction or other unwanted influences. | | | | go back and mend fit. |
| Then, it gets drip dried only. | | | | Post-Production |
| We cannot overstress pre-washing. During the stage | | | | A. Hand Finish |
| of manufacturing, contemporary fabrics are | | | | It's a lot quicker to finish seams closed by operating |
| tremendously 'sized'. The term 'sizing' mentions the | | | | the sewing machine from one side to other side of |
| soak that most fabrics endures, which provides them | | | | them. Don't get tempted! A seam finished by hands is |
| more body and shine after they are pressed through | | | | unbeatable. It appears improved lies flatter and doesn't |
| rollers and then placed on boards for transfer to the | | | | upset the rest of the garment. Prejudice or seam |
| stall. After the fabric is washed, the 'size' is washed | | | | fastening always looks beautiful if finished by hand. |
| out and the fabric becomes softer and less shiny. | | | | B. Finishing Strokes |
| Shrinking can also be prevented by pre-washing. Most | | | | Life is generated in the garment by hand sewing |
| contemporary fabrics are extended (a little or a lot, | | | | buttons, buttonholes and eyelet holes and by other |
| banking on quality) during the weaving and sizing | | | | minute particulars. It may be trouble-free and quicker to |
| procedure. If your fabric is not pre-washed before | | | | achieve these things with your machine, but it won't |
| cutting and making project, you will have to be sorry | | | | seem as good and it won't seem at period, which is |
| after when you drop project and it gets smaller in very | | | | the complete thought. |
| unwanted ways. | | | | |