Crewel Embroidery

Crewel is a special kind of embroidery done with awere called "palampores." These were painted or
pointed hook and used for drapery and upholstery.printed by the East India Company and sent to
Rows of chain stitch done with a pointed hook formEngland. The Tree of Life was the standard design
solid patterns usually rotating from the center andand was a stem rising from mounds or hills called
creating an embossed effect to add richness to the"terra firma." It was exaggerated foliage and flowers
textile. Crewel is done on the thick material popularlywith birds and other wildlife done in big and bold
used for furnishing and usually carries flowing floral anddesigns. Most of the crewelwork done was extremely
creeper designs. The thick material includesheavy as these were used to decorate walls and
hand-woven Cotton Dosooti Fabric, Cotton Duck, Linen,beds that were to keep out the cold winds. There
Jute, etc. The Crewel embroidery, done in thick woolenwere no standard stitches that were used in doing the
yarn by a pointed crochet, provides a very dazzlingcrewel embroidery but the most common stitches of
and durable material for drapes and upholstery’s.the times were chain, stem, long-and-short, straight,
All embroidery is done by hand in either single orsatin, french knot, running, feather and herringbone. The
double ply wool. Designs are available in assortment offabric of choice during those times were very heavy
colors ranging from a single color to multicolourto accommodate the uses. The colors were normally
embroidery. The price is related with the amount ofin the green and blue hues and only small amounts of
embroidery done on the material. The width of theyellow and muted shades of red were used. When
material is 52”, 54” inches and length is 25 or 28crewel was introduced to the colonies it was scaled
meters per roll. The craft is also available ondown to suit the needs of the times. The yarns that
Bedspreads, Cushion Covers in various sizes.were used were also more crude than the European
Crewelyarns and the first dye that was used was indigo and
Crewel, also known as wool embroidery, has beenthus brought about an offshoot of crewel called
around for centuries. The word crewel is derived fromDeerfield. Today crewelwork is done in almost any
an old Welsh term meaning “wool.” The wordtype of yarn and on any fabric. Only the style is the
referred to the wool yarn used for stitching and notremnants of the original crewel of years gone by.
the style of embroidery. Traditionally, heavy woolsThe crewel revival of the 1960's and 70's began mildly
were used for this type of embroidery, but today thereenough with Mildred Davis and Elsa Williams. Their
is a wide variety of yarns and even threads to choosediscoveries and love of crewel focused attention on
from, depending on the desired effect.textiles preserved in museum collections for women
Although crewel is considered the most difficultwho were still homebound. Erica Wilson, with her
stitchery technique to master, it is ideal for pillows,design ability and skill, represented a new freedom that
curtains, clothing, and wall hangings. The use ofwas arriving quickly. When Susan Swan's book, Plain
tightly-woven fabrics enables stitchers to create anand Fancy, reached this market in 1976, a passion was
infinite variety of shapes. There are a great number offlamed for textile research and study that continues
stitches that can be employed in crewel embroidery;today. Betty Ring's monumental work, Girlhood
these stitches add texture and depth to the finishedEmbroidery, opened the past for many women who
piece. The outlines of the design are often screencould clearly feel a connection to their history through
printed on the fabric, and the stitcher fills in, or outlines,embroidery. This excitement is reflected in amazing
each area with stitches.advancements in counted work on evenweave linen
Crewel Historyby women relearning 17th century techniques who are
Crewel Embroidery, or Crewelwork, is a decorativeno longer bound by previous conventions. Crewel
form of surface embroidery using wool and a varietyembroidery has had many revivals since its English and
of different embroidery stitches to follow a designAmerican zenith of the 17th and 18th century. Each
outline applied to the fabric. The technique is at least arevival alters and redefines stitch names and
thousand years old. It was used in the Bayeuxtechniques with losses and gains sustained during each
Tapestry, in Jacobean embroidery and in the Quakerperiod.
tapestry.The origin of the word crewel is unknown butThe word crewel, with a variety of spellings, can be
is thought to come from an ancient word describingfound in English records back to the 13th century. It is
the curl in the staple, the single hair of the wool. Crewelthought to have come from the East to Egypt then to
wool has a long staple; it is fine and can be stronglyGreece and Rome where it traveled with the Roman
twisted. Modern crewel wool is a fine, 2-ply or 1-plyconquests to England. From the 15th century crewel
yarn available in many different colors.embroidery meant any embroidery technique using fine
Crewelwork came to the United States from England,worsted yarns. I've been known to say repeatedly that
where it gained its popularity during the rule of Kingthe name surely refers to the effect of the sharp
James I. This time in history was the Jacobean periodneedle on your fingers while stitching. This is definitely
and the embroidery of the time was called Jacobean.an untruth for past usage of the word crewel included
Crewel was taken from the type of yarn that wastent and cross stitch using an inoffensive tapestry
used "krua" which means wool. This wool yarn was aneedle. By the 20th century crewelwork had been
thin worsted yarn made of two threads. The termredefined to mean surface embroidery with wool.
crewel embroidery actually means wool embroideryCrewel, by definition, is the application of a variety of
and today refers to the design of the period not juststitches to the surface of fabric, usually linen, following
the wool yarn that was used in the stitching. The firsta design applied to the fabric.
crewel or Jacobean designs came from the orient and