Embroidery Designs Sewing

Denim is a twill weave and runs diagonally and anyyou want it! It's usually best to try it on & look in
diagonal weave is difficult to control, whether you arethe mirror.) Since this was for my daughter I had to
attempting construction sewing or machine embroidery.wing it!
Twills are designed to give the wearer ultimate~ PREPARING THE FABRIC OR GARMENT ~
wearing comfort by the natural "give" it has. That'sI laundered the coat to shrink it to prevent any warping
why we all love our chinos & jeans! However, thisor puckering which would have happened after it was
comfort quality presents a real problem for machinelaundered the first time. Next I steam pressed the front
embroidery enthusiasts.of the jacket to its original flat state by applying Magic
It is essential to keep fabric "blocked" while cutting,Sizing and heavy steam. Now the key here is the
assembling, and stitching either regular seaming orword press - not iron! If you iron (move the iron in any
machine embroidery. From cutting out pattern piecesdirection while bearing down) denim will be stretched
to hooping denim for embroidery, you will experience aand distorted.
challenge of keeping the fabric "blocked" squarely. IfAfter allowing the coat to dry completely after this
you're a quilter, you know exactly what blocking is. Ifprocess, and making sure of the design placement
you're not a quilter it simply means keeping the grain ofpreviously decided, I then applied the fusible medium
the weave, in both cross & straight directions,tear away backing to the back side, using a dry iron
straight or square.set at the polyester setting, making sure that the
Denim is difficult to block because of the diagonalbacking straight grain was running with the coat cross
weave and, generally, denim is a heavier weight thangrain. Again - press the backing not iron it. To avoid an
most other fabrics are. I recently stitched an anklearmor look, I chose the soft tear away backing as the
length, heavy, denim duster coat using a very largesecond layer which was placed straight grain to
design down the front edge of the coat opening, nearstraight grain. A light spraying of 505 temporary
the hemline. This meant I had to keep the designadhesive was applied to keep it from shifting.
running straight in 2 directions at once. The outcome~ STABILIZING ~
could have been quite unsightly if I hadn't taken extraMy choice for the "hooping" backing was wonder solv
precautions to make sure the design was placed- a water soluble, fabric-like stabilizer, which will support
squarely and that the stabilizing was adequate toany number of stitches. I hooped a piece in my Brother
prevent the puckers and warping that result from thejumbo hoop, which has a 5 X 12 inch stitch area. I then
pull of a machine embroidery design while it is stitching.sprayed the wonder solv with a heavy coat of 505
Since I had chosen a rather dense assortment ofspray.
designs to combine for a scene, I knew that I had aI set the jumbo hoop on my Hoop Mate to insure that I
difficult, but not impossible, task. First I had to determinecould get the front edge of the coat straight with the
what would keep the twill from becoming distortedcurved edge of the hoop. Then, making sure that the
during the stitching. Second, I knew it would be next tohem edge was kept straight as well, I pressed the
impossible to hoop the coat - the denim was as heavyentire backed portion of the coat to the hooped
as any work jeans I've seen.wonder solv. I placed the plastic grid template over the
I immediately knew that I wouldn't be able to hoop the"hooped" fabric to double-check the placement Whew
coat, therefore it was a matter of first stabilizing the- the worst part of the project was accomplished!
denim then finding a way to create a method of~ FINALLY! READY TO STITCH ~
hooping a backing that would hold up under a highAfter locking the hoop to the embroidery arm, I placed
stitch count design and remove easily when thea sheet of web solvy on top to prevent the stitches
stitching was completed. Given the factors I couldn'tfrom sinking into the denim. The first thing I stitched
change - the weight of the fabric & the heavinesswas the basting outlines in all three areas of the jumbo
of the group of designs - I wanted to use a "formula"hoop. It takes a bit of time, but is well worth the effort.
of layers which wouldn't create a stiff effect when allThis secures the fabric/garment to the hooped
was done. The front edge of a coat does flip open -backing helping to insure the least amount of
this could be considered a lethal weapon if one is notmovement during the actual design stitching.
careful!I proceeded by stitching the top design first, then the
~ DESIGN PLACEMENT ~bottom design and finally the center design. By moving
The first problem to overcome - can you imagine thearound the hoop in this fashion you are preventing
bulk of all this fabric when attaching the hoop to theexcessive pull in any one area, which can cause
machine! Since the bulk of the fabric must be to thedistortion of the fabric and unsightly puckering.
left of the machine so as not to constrict the~ FINAL RESULTS ~
movement of the embroidery "arm" and hoop, theI'm happy to report that the entire scene was straight
design had to stitched upside down! To accomplish thissquare with the front and hemline edge of the coat,
you simply flip the design/s first vertically thenthere were no puckers, no warping and no "off "
horizontally.outlines! The coat was no stiffer after the designs
Using a printed image of the design and the plastic gridwere applied than it was originally. My daughter now
for the hoop, I decided exactly where I wanted toproudly wears a lighthouse to ocean-floor scene on
place the design. (Always stand about 3 feet awaythe lower edge of this spring / fall weight coat!
from the garment to make sure the design is where