| You may sometimes think that basic techniques just | | | | must for you to remain comfortable in your layers of |
| fall into an elementary category. But I say that even | | | | period clothing. I would not recommend a poly/cotton |
| the "Basics" can be divided into intermediate and | | | | blend for your chemise and drawers even though it |
| advanced levels. | | | | doesn't crease like 100% cotton or linen. Even the |
| For example, your hand stitches fall into the beginning | | | | minor polyester content will keep you overheated; and |
| category, whereas accurate marking of notches, dart | | | | inexpensive cotton fabrics are readily available. |
| lines, placement lines, etc. are intermediate, and boning | | | | Advanced Basics: |
| a bodice is an advanced practice. Yet the process of | | | | |
| adding bones is still a basic skill of historical | | | | 1. Grading seam allowances. Grading is very important |
| construction. | | | | for enclosed seams to lie flat. It is another method to |
| Here are 13 fundamental steps to advance you in the | | | | keep your projects from looking "home-made." Trim all |
| right direction when you are working on your sewing | | | | layers in a seam to graduated widths. This includes |
| projects. | | | | interfacings, interlinings, facings, collars, pockets and |
| Intermediate Skills | | | | flaps - any fabric layers sandwiched within a seam. |
| | | | Taper them all to different levels. |
| 1. Pressing and ironing. The secret to a professional | | | | 2. Take a new set of measurements before each |
| looking garment (from any time period) is pressing as | | | | project and over correct undergarments. Do not |
| you go along. Don't rush ahead. Half of your sewing | | | | assume you're the size same as last season. Verify |
| time should be at the ironing board. As for ironing, you | | | | the numbers. And don't wait to lose or gain weight |
| do this to get wrinkles out of a fabric and what you do | | | | before starting an outfit. It will never get done if you |
| to your husband's dress shirts. However, you also iron | | | | procrastinate. Ways exist to take-in and let-out |
| your finished costume before wearing and after | | | | garments to allow for weight fluctuations. Just get the |
| cleaning. Pressing is the up and down motion of the | | | | project started. |
| iron on the fabric. You do not slide the iron when | | | | 3. Cry over having to cut a 2nd mock-up - not over |
| pressing; you lift the iron and set it down again. | | | | having to buy 10 more yards of $16/yd silk. Muslins |
| 2. Accurate marking of construction symbols. Notches, | | | | (mock-ups/drafts/examples made up in a cheap fabric |
| dart lines, centers, pocket, button and trim placements, | | | | to test your pattern) are worth their time and effort. |
| sleeve dots, and other markings that help you put | | | | They will save you valuable money and time. |
| together your pattern pieces are critical in the | | | | 4. Always buy that extra yard or two of special fabric |
| construction process. Without them, your sleeves don't | | | | and trim. You probably won't find it again. Better be |
| sit right in your bodice and you end up with the wrong | | | | safe than sorry. You can always make a reticule (bag |
| space between buttonholes. Transfer these marks at | | | | or purse) as an accessory for your costume or a |
| the cutting stage before sewing. | | | | fancy pillow for your home. Any extra fabrics you |
| 3. Keep one set of really good sharp shears reserved | | | | don't want or need can be donated to your local |
| for fabric cutting only. Use a smaller set of scissors for | | | | American Sewing Guild who will make the fabric into |
| cutting thread at your machine. And use even another | | | | articles for those in need (e.g. quilts, caps for cancer |
| pair for your paper patterns. Paper dulls scissor edges | | | | patients, etc.). |
| very quickly. Dull shears will mar your fabrics while | | | | 5. When in doubt, add one more petticoat. Petticoats |
| cutting. Keep them sharp! | | | | make all the difference in a correct looking outfit and a |
| 4. Break down your sewing steps into small sections. | | | | thrown together costume (even if you spent many |
| Set goals for when each step should be completed. | | | | hours on it). Wear correctly shaped petticoats that |
| When you have only a small amount of time to sew, | | | | follow the line of your skirt. Keep them one to four |
| follow your goal sheet with the next step even if that | | | | inches shorter than your skirt hem. |
| means only pressing the hem and sewing later; or only | | | | 6. Look at period art and fashion plates for design |
| setting in one sleeve per sewing session. If you work in | | | | ideas. Fashion plates were first published in the late |
| stages and with set goals you will be amazed at what | | | | 18th century. (To give an example, the featured spread |
| you can accomplish. | | | | in our current Vogue magazine and other |
| 5. Sharp, clean hand sewing needles. If you repeatedly | | | | contemporary fashion magazines are today's fashion |
| use the same needle it will pick up your skin oils and | | | | plates.) Women would look at these published |
| make for going through fabric more difficult. Don't be | | | | sketches, modify them for their own tastes and |
| afraid to throw out your old and dirty needles. They | | | | budget then create the new outfit. |
| are cheap to replace. For dull hand sewing needles, | | | | And the final (bonus) basic tip that works for every |
| use an emery strawberry to keep them sharp. | | | | sewing level: |
| 6. During the cutting process, pin only in the seam | | | | Don't sew while angry, PMS'ing, or during a hurricane. |
| allowances. Cut with the grain when possible. The best | | | | No matter what fundamental method you are striving |
| way to cut tulle is laid out on a self-healing mat and cut | | | | to perfect, it will take your sewing to the next level of |
| with a rotary cutter. | | | | professionalism. |
| 7. Use natural fabrics ONLY for all your correct period | | | | Best of luck to you as you apply these basic |
| undergarments. They breathe and keep you cooler | | | | techniques to your historical sewing! |
| and/or warmer depending on the weather. This is a | | | | |