| From the very beginning, Buenos Aires | | | | in the middle of the dance session - |
| and the tango have been inseparable. | | | | check with the show's organizers |
| It was in the brothels of this | | | | beforehand. Most of the same dance |
| burgeoning South American port city | | | | halls will also offer classes, normally |
| that, around the turn of the century, | | | | in the early evening hours before the |
| Italian immigrant laborers first | | | | "milonga" begins. |
| invented the dance. By the 1920s and | | | | Contact information for these and other |
| 30s, with these brothel beginnings | | | | "milongas" can be found on the official |
| largely relegated to the past, tango | | | | Government of Buenos Aires site: |
| reached its golden age, a time of | | | | For those who don't yet have the skills |
| immense popularity for both the dance | | | | to take on Buenos Aires' best dancers, |
| and the music alike. During those years | | | | or who are looking for a more relaxed or |
| tango could be heard, in both its sung | | | | more youthful atmosphere, the "practica" |
| and its orchestral versions, on the | | | | or practice session has recently been |
| radio and in dance halls around the | | | | gaining in popularity on the traditional |
| world. | | | | classic "milonga". A variety of these |
| Tango, of course, remains popular to | | | | less formal, even "underground", dance |
| this day. And Buenos Aires is still the | | | | halls have risen up to the task of |
| best place in the world to dance the | | | | providing young Argentines and foreign |
| tango or see it performed on the stage. | | | | visitors with a place to dance where |
| Tango dance halls are called "milongas." | | | | they won't be beholden to the constant |
| Even the uninitiated are welcome at a | | | | pressures of tango-world snobbery. Some |
| "milonga" - which is to say that anyone | | | | of these "milongas", like the more |
| is free to take a class or to watch from | | | | traditional dance halls, also have |
| the tables which encircle the dance | | | | shows. Amongst these places, you'll |
| floor. But those with little experience | | | | find: |
| should be aware that in the late | | | | Tango Cool! (in Club Villa Malcolm) |
| evening, when the "milonga" is in | | | | La Viruta (in The Centro Cultural |
| session, you are expected to be a highly | | | | Armenia) |
| proficient dancer before you should | | | | Catedral |
| think about selecting a partner (Ladies, | | | | Finally, for tourists and for tourists |
| don't even think about it! According to | | | | only (most Argentines could scarcely |
| the tango code, only men may do the | | | | afford the ticket price), a number of |
| asking). Stepping on toes is not | | | | places in Buenos Aires offer dinner - |
| appreciated and anyone who does so will | | | | show combinations. The food is mostly |
| not be asked to dance again. | | | | forgettable, and the shows are of the |
| "Tangueros", as tango dancers are known, | | | | Andrew Lloyd Webber variety, with |
| are not a forgiving lot. | | | | flimsily constructed plotlines, a random |
| "Milongas" don't begin until 10:00 or | | | | selection of music, unfunny jokes told |
| 11:00 in the evening and normally will | | | | by garrulous MCs, and plenty of |
| not end before 4:00 or 5:00 am., so make | | | | spectacle and special effects - in one |
| sure you have a siesta the day before. | | | | of the shows, a live horse is brought |
| A list of some of the nicest "classic" | | | | onto the stage every night! The dancers |
| milongas in Buenos Aires includes: | | | | are, however, true professionals and, |
| Bien Pulenta | | | | especially when more than one couple is |
| La Confiteria Ideal | | | | dancing together on stage, the spectacle |
| Salon Canning | | | | is truly amazing. For that alone it may |
| El Niño Bien | | | | be worth paying the entry fee. The |
| All of these are traditional dance | | | | price for these shows is, however, |
| halls, with marble or hardwood floors, | | | | extremely steep, especially by local |
| chandelier lighting, gilded ceilings and | | | | standards. Expect to pay around one |
| black jacket waiters - places that are | | | | hundred US dollars for dinner and a show |
| imbued with no small amount of class, | | | | - more if inflation continues its |
| and perhaps an even larger amount of | | | | current course of eroding away the |
| snobbery. Many of these milongas will | | | | savings that tourists used to see from |
| offer mini-shows with famous dancers, | | | | the devalued peso. |
| usually at 1:00 or 2:00 am, as a break | | | | |